Survivors of Phylloxera: The Triumph of Portugal's

Ungrafted Vines Unwavering Tradition: The Movement of Ungrafted Vines

In the world of wine, where innovation and tradition collide, a movement emerges that venerates a pre-phylloxera era: the cultivation of ungrafted vines. This ancient method of planting vines directly in the soil, on their own roots, resurfaces, challenging modern conventions and redefining the purity of wine. Among the advocates of this approach is the organization "Les Francs de Pied", an elite club of European producers celebrating the art of cultivating ungrafted vines. Notable members such as Loïc Pasquet, Nicolas Maillart, among others, keep alive the tradition and legacy of ungrafted vines.

From Devastation to Innovation: The Victory Over Phylloxera Phylloxera

A small insect parasite of vine roots, triggered one of the greatest crises in the world wine history in the late 19th century. Originating from North America, this pest was accidentally introduced into Europe, where it encountered a vine ecosystem with no natural resistance to its attack. The consequence was devastating: thousands of hectares of vineyards were destroyed, putting the existence of the European wine industry at risk.

The response to this crisis came in the form of grafting, an ancient agricultural technique that gained a new purpose. The solution found was to use rootstocks from American vine species, resistant to phylloxera, onto which European Vitis vinifera varieties, appreciated for their superior wine attributes, were grafted. This method not only saved the wine industry from collapse but also inaugurated a new era in viticulture.

In summary, the resurgence of ungrafted vines is not just a return to the roots of European viticulture; it's a reaffirmation of the commitment to excellence, sustainability, and the authentic expression of terroir. This is a journey of rediscovery.

Demystifying Myths: The Impact of Grafting

Controversy arises around the claims that ungrafted vines produce superior wines compared to grafted vines. While some argue that grafting can interfere with the expression of terroir, science reminds us that, if done well, grafting does not compromise the quality or integrity of the wine. The choice of the right rootstock can, in fact, be a vital tool in viticulture, allowing vines to better adapt to various soils and climatic conditions.

The Unique Case of Colares: A Bastion of Ungrafted Vines

The region of Colares, located in a secluded coastal area of Portugal, is a notable case study in the wine world, thanks to its unique ability to resist the devastating phylloxera pest that ravaged Europe at the end of the 19th century. This feat is attributed to its peculiar layer of sandy soil, which protected the roots of the vines, allowing Colares to maintain ungrafted vines, i.e., vines planted directly in the soil, without the need for grafting onto resistant rootstocks.

Colares and Its Historical Fame

Colares gained fame and recognition at the time not only for its unique resistance to phylloxera but also for the exceptional quality of its wines. The peculiarity of its terroir, influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic, gives Colares wines unique characteristics, highly appreciated both nationally and internationally. This fame is largely due to the ability of Colares wines to express the authenticity and purity of their territory, at a time when many other wine regions were struggling for survival.

The Importance of Sandy Soils

The deeply sandy soil of Colares was the key to its resistance to phylloxera. The roots of the vines can penetrate deep into the sand, reaching layers of earth where the pest cannot survive. This natural phenomenon created a sanctuary for ungrafted vines, allowing the region to develop wines with a distinctive and inimitable profile. The name of Colares, thus, became synonymous with resistance, tradition, and quality in the wine world.

The region of Colares, with its ungrafted vines, sandy soils, and autochthonous grape varieties, constitutes an invaluable wine heritage for Portugal and the world. The history of Colares is a celebration of traditional viticulture, adaptation, and resistance, offering wine lovers an authentic and deeply rooted experience in Portuguese culture and history.

Bairrada: A New Chapter in the History of Ungrafted Vines

Beyond Colares, Bairrada emerges as a vibrant chapter in the narrative of ungrafted vines in Portugal. This region, known for its ability to produce wines of exceptional quality and character, hosts notable projects like Quinta do Ribeirinho and Nossa Missão, which honor the tradition of ungrafted vines, taking it to new heights.

A Toast to the Wine Diversity of Portugal

The resurgence of ungrafted vines is a celebration of the richness and diversity of Portuguese viticulture. Bairrada, with Quinta do Ribeirinho and Nossa Missão, joins Colares at the forefront of this movement, reinforcing Portugal's position as a country that honors its winemaking past while boldly looking to the future. This is an invitation to rediscover Portuguese wines, one sip at a time, exploring the stories, the people, and the terroirs that make each bottle unique.

Let us then toast to innovation, tradition, and the ongoing evolution of Portuguese ungrafted vine wines. May the passion and dedication of those who cultivate these ancient vines inspire both novice wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs to explore the depth and breadth of wines that Portugal has to offer.